As I entered the rather abandoned looking Safdarjung railway station, I was greeted by a cacophony of sounds and the cliched Indian welcome--marigold garland, tika, the works. Just as I was beginning to think I had walked into one of those kitschy Delhi weddings, a Rajput man in regal livery and with a handlebar moustache bowed his six-ft frame graciously and, putting his palms together in a namaskar, greeted me in a booming voice: "Khama Ghani. Welcome to the Royal Rajasthan On Wheels. I am your khidmatgar for the journey." To be served is a 'royal' prerogative and that's the whole idea of this luxury train--to allow you to feel like royalty while travelling through the royal state of Rajasthan.

Within a few minutes I was transported to another world, courtesy of the attendant's undivided attention. At a luxury hotel, there is a doorman to greet you, a bellboy to cart luggage, a hostess to show you to your room, but this one-man service was in a league of its own. The cliched greeting at the entrance was quickly forgotten as I walked towards the coach.

It doesn't take much to guess that the coaches get their names from Rajasthan's palaces--Hawa Mahal, Chandra Mahal, Surya Mahal, Moti Mahal, Sukh Mahal, Padmini Mahal, Phool Mahal, Jogi Mahal, Kumbha Palace, Umaid Bhavan and Lal Garh Palace. Stepping into my coach, Chandra Mahal, I felt like I was entering the home of a Rajasthani royal.

My cabin was all silk, wood and brass. The toilet, though small, was modern, and the large windows promised stunning views of the landscapes the train passed through. I realised it was not easy to recreate the feel of a palace given the constraints of space in a railway coach but there it was and I was going to be living in it for the next seven days.
The apprehension I had of being cooped up in a train was soon forgotten. Initially it seemed like a labyrinth as I walked down the corridors but then every corner had something for you-posh restaurants, well-stocked bars, a library and reading room, and liveried men at your beck and call. This train could put many a palace to shame.

The itinerary contained a small bit of road transportation. Rajasthan is close to my heart and I have criss-crossed it by air, road, parts on camel but never through this combination. By the time the train pulled out of Safdarjung I was so settled in royal comfort that I thought it was unnecessary to leave the train and board a luxury coach for sightseeing. But the first excursion to Jodhpur was enough to prove me wrong.

The transition from train to road and back to train was seamless. Of course every time we made the transition, there was a lot of paraphernalia thrown in to enhance the royal experience: music, dancers, elephants, camels and, of course, the garlands and tika.

Over the first four days, the train took us to Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Ranthambhore and Jaipur. (Khajuraho, Varanasi and Agra are the three other places the train covers before chugging back to the capital.) What featured in terms of sightseeing--Mehrangarh and Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur, City Palace and the lakes in Udaipur, Rana Kumbha Palace in Chittaurgarh, jeep safari in Ranthambhore, and Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar and Amer Fort in Jaipur--was nothing new for me. But what I liked about going to these places yet again was the hospitality. Bottles of water, cold towels, an umbrella over the head when the sun was too harsh, a five-star meal at a hotel overlooking a beautiful lake and so on...

Wake-up calls was the other thing I got used to while on this journey. My personal attendant woke me up every morning to make sure I am on time for a hearty breakfast before going off to see the sights. For breakfast, the kitchen was a beehive of activity churning out eggs in various forms, cutlets, sausages, bacon, fruit platters and fresh juices. And if you have some preferences the khidmatgars make sure it is there. The only time they were not serving was when we were sleeping.

Lunches during this journey were mostly at a luxury hotel or palace. Dinner was onboard except for a couple of occasions when we were treated to the 'culture and food' of Rajasthan at a hotel. Otherwise on the train, after the hectic hop-step-jump, dinner was a wonderful experience as I relaxed in either Sheesh Mahal (this restaurant is all wood and crystal) or Swarn Mahal (all gold and brass). The dinner menu, which changed daily, kept me guessing through the day.

Mealtimes were also when I interacted with co-passengers. The stories, experiences, impressions, reactions, complaints, praises all added to the flavour. No dinner lasted less than three hours and I always went to bed a happy man.

Days and nights flitted by as the train criss-crossed through Rajasthan. I must admit that the hop-step-jump routine did get to me towards the end. I yearned for some more time to just relax on the train.

As I stepped off the train, after many fond farewells, the magic around me vanished. Barely out of the station and I started missing the pampering and the attention. Another journey on Royal Rajasthan On Wheels may be a while away. Till then, I have the memories to fall back on.
At a glance
Royal Rajasthan On Wheels runs from September to April. The train leaves on Sunday from Delhi's Safdarjung Railway Station (near Moti Bagh).

Price: US$ 910 per night (single occupancy) and US$ 650 (double occupancy) for Deluxe cabin; US$ 1600 per night for Super Deluxe suite (irrespective of single or double occupancy). Rates valid till April 2012

Contact: Royal Rajasthan On Wheels, Ground Floor, Bikaner House, Pandara Road, New Delhi - 110011; e-mail: query@
royalsrajasthanonwheels.com; www.royalsrajasthanonwheels.com

FYI: Must know

The train itinerary:
Day 1 (Sunday) - New Delhi
Day 2 (Monday) - Jodhpur;
Day 3 (Tuesday) - Udaipur and Chittaurgarh;
Day 4 (Wednesday) - Ranthambhore and Jaipur;
Day 5 (Thursday) - Khajuraho
Day 6 (Friday) - Varanasi;
Day 7 (Saturday) - Agra and back to Delhi

Most day excursions include lunch at luxury hotels.

Be punctual for dinners. Semi-formal or formal dressing is recommended on board.

Travel light. Don't carry oversize bags and suitcases. While the cabins have enough storage space, fitting in large bags may be a problem.
Source:
http://www.indiatoday.in